Category: Textile Design

From 21 November to 4 January, the Palm Hall of the Tallinn Botanical Garden will present the exhibition “BOTEXSEMANTIC GARDEN / HORTUS BOTEXEMANTICUS” by Kadi Kibbermann and Piret Valk, lecturers from the Department of Textile Design at the Estonian Academy of Arts.

The exhibition presents experimental textile installations that tell the story of the role and meaning of plants in the lives of the artists – about the materials obtained from plants and their survival strategies.

The exhibition responds to the challenge of adapting to a world in which intergenerational memory is being replaced by instructions and rules; great stories have become impoverished language abbreviations and direct contacts have become virtual. Algorithms have become landmarks in plant-blind artificial landscapes.

The support-root of artists of maintaining balance with the real world are their contact with nature and relationships with other species. They explore what could be learned from plants through practical interest, poetic interpretations and artistic practice based on them. The inspiration is the diversity, essential and distinctiveness of the plant world – forms, patterns and textures; their necessity for people and the environment; their ability to adapt to change and survive even in very difficult conditions. The works combine knowledge and practical experience to show the importance of plants as an endless source of resources – as fertilizer, providing role models and seeds of ideas, as fibers and natural colors; and as communication with plants, health and balance. Plants help to remember and depict stories that affirm identity.

To adapt to today’s world, a new language of communication – BOTEX has been created in the context of the exhibition. Botany + textile + poetry + meanings = BOTEX semantics.

There are BOTEXophies growing in the BOTEXemantic garden.

BOTEXophies are synthesized from plants and textiles.

BOTEX is spoken by plant-loving BOTEXegees, to translate plants and their strategies through BOTEXophies.

BOTEXophies are named and organized into the BOTEXonomic system: INDEX BOTEXEMANTICUM.

The exhibition is open until the 4th of January 2026.

More information about the opening hours of the Palm House and greenhouses can be found at: https://botaanikaaed.ee/en/opening-hours/

Teams link:

https://events.teams.microsoft.com/event/5c5cc647-a839-4491-a006-cc7c3dc2013d@6d356317-0d04-4abc-b6b6-8c9773885bb0

Bintan Titisari (Postdoctoral researcher, University of Leeds, Colour4CRAFTS)

“Natural dyes ecosystem in textile and fashion industry” (in English, online)

Description: Natural dyeing is one of the oldest traditions in European textiles, deeply tied to cultural heritage and local craftsmanship. Today, it is re-emerging as an important practice in the textile and fashion industries, extending from small workshops into larger-scale production. This lecture examines the broader ecosystem of natural dyes, exploring how they intersect with heritage, sustainability, design practice, and trend forecasting. The relationship between artisanal and industrial approaches can appear divided, yet each contributes valuable knowledge and innovation. By recognising these interconnections, we can better understand how natural dyes offer not only a link to tradition but also a pathway toward more sustainable and creative futures for fashion and textiles.

Bintan Titisari (PhD), University of Leeds, postdoctoral researcher. Bintan Titisari (PhD) is a postdoctoral researcher at the School of Design, University of Leeds. Her research interests are in the textile and fashion design industry, focusing on the interdisciplinary aspects of textile design, colourants, sustainable practices, and consumer behaviour. With over a decade of academic experience in Indonesia, Brunei, and the UK, she has taught and developed courses in sustainable fashion, craft design, resist dyeing, and smart textiles. In her textile-making practice, she combines natural dyes with the resist dyeing technique to create unique textiles. She is a member of the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS.

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The lecture is part of a series “Textile Dyes of the Past and Future: sharing the Colour4CRAFTS Experience” begins, initiated by the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS.

The webinar series brings together EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS members and important guests to discuss and share their knowledge on textile dyes of the past and future. The series is brought together by the University of Tartu and Viljandi Culture Academy in collaboration with the Estonian Academy of Arts.

EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS combines a multidisciplinary team of experts from research institutes and R&D companies to carry out studies of bio-based textile colouration in traditional historic perspective and in combination with cutting-edge technologies of colourants biosynthesis and waterless applications techniques. Colour4CRAFTS members are the University of Helsinki, University of Lapland, University of Tartu, KIK-IRPA, University of Leeds and PILI Bio.

11.11 16.00

Deb Bamford (doctoral researcher, University of Leeds, Colour4CRAFTS)

” What can we learn from using mordants?” (in English, online)

In natural dyeing, mordants are often required. These substances help dye molecules bind to the fiber and can influence the final hue. Their effectiveness depends on the type of fiber, the dye used, and the mordanting method. The most commonly used mordants are various metal salts, historically among which alum-based compounds are particularly popular. How do mordants work, and what should be considered when using them?

Deb Bamford, University of Leeds, doctoral researcher. Deb Bamford is a doctoral student at the University of Leeds, School of Design. Her research interests include history of dyes, dyeing and textiles. Her thesis title is “Investigations to improve the mordanting process for natural dyes on cotton and wool using aluminium salts or alternative bio-mordants”. She is a member of the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS project.

The lecture is part of a series “Textile Dyes of the Past and Future: sharing the Colour4CRAFTS Experience” begins, initiated by the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS.

The webinar series brings together EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS members and important guests to discuss and share their knowledge on textile dyes of the past and future. The series is brought together by the University of Tartu and Viljandi Culture Academy in collaboration with the Estonian Academy of Arts.

EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS combines a multidisciplinary team of experts from research institutes and R&D companies to carry out studies of bio-based textile colouration in traditional historic perspective and in combination with cutting-edge technologies of colourants biosynthesis and waterless applications techniques. Colour4CRAFTS members are the University of Helsinki, University of Lapland, University of Tartu, KIK-IRPA, University of Leeds and PILI Bio.

We warmly welcome you to the opening of the group exhibition 

“The Hay Season. A Longing for Eternity” on 11 November at 6:30 PM, 

at Manufaktuuri 7/2, Tallinn.

From 12. November to 18. December 2025, artists Martin Mikson, Anna-Liisa Pärt, Paul Aadam Mikson, and Juulia Aleksandra Mikson present a joint exhibition “The Hay Season. A Longing for Eternity” at Manufaktuuri Quarter, Tallinn.

“The Hay Season. A Longing for Eternity” is an exhibition that reflects on the relationship between humans and nature, the passage of time, and the rhythms of survival. Once, haytime signified a period of anxious waiting and dependence on the weather – today, it has become a poetic metaphor for the longing for peace and balance in an ever-changing world.

The exhibition mirrors the artists’ personal and shared connection to familiar landscapes that are in constant transformation. “The Hay Season. A Longing for Eternity” invites the viewer to notice the rhythm of nature and reminds us how fragile our bond with it has become.

Martin Mikson is a scenographer and painter who has created numerous stage designs for Estonian theatres.
Anna-Liisa Pärt is a scenographer and painter.
Paul Aadam Mikson is a metal artist. Who works with large scale forgings.  
Juulia Aleksandra Mikson is a textile artist exploring the boundaries between materials.

All the artists are graduates of the Estonian Academy of Arts.

Graphic design: Juulia A. Mikson

Supported by: Hepsor, Põhjala Pruulikoda, Õllenaut.

21.10 16.00 

https://events.teams.microsoft.com/event/7259da59-2f6c-4ba2-97c8-348e6b5a6666@6d356317-0d04-4abc-b6b6-8c9773885bb0

Riikka Räisanen (Professor, University of Helsinki, Colour4CRAFTS consortium leader)

“From Tradition to the future: Chemistry behind natural Colour Palette” (In English, online)

Societies are stretching towards greater sustainability and textile colouration has been in discussion as it is one of the industries which uses vast amounts of energy and water resources and pollutes environment through poor control of colouration processes. Also, the aim to pull away from fossil resources has driven research to studies of natural and bio-based solutions in materials and dyeing.  Before the mid 19th century, and the revolution of colour chemistry designing synthetic dyes, natural sources offered the only colourants in use. Currently natural dyes have become more popular among designers and craft practitioners. In my lecture I will showcase some of the recent research done in the area of bio-based colourants and novel solutions how to apply them in different materials and final products. Focus is especially laid in proceedings of the EU-Horizon funded Colour4CRAFTS project and its multidisciplinary teams which include researchers from archaeology, history, textile technology and craft, chemistry, design and futures studies.

Riikka Räisanen, University of Helsinki, Professor. Riikka Räisänen is a professor in craft science and craft pedagogy in the University of Helsinki. Her background is in chemistry and natural sciences, craft studies and education. She has over twenty years of experience in research of natural colourants and textiles, and has published numerous articles and books on the topic. In 2016 she was awarded with the Silver Medal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (UK) for the research in the field of natural colourants. She is the Colour4CRAFTS consortium leader.

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The lecture is part of a series “Textile Dyes of the Past and Future: sharing the Colour4CRAFTS Experience” begins, initiated by the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS.

The webinar series brings together EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS members and important guests to discuss and share their knowledge on textile dyes of the past and future. The series is brought together by the University of Tartu and Viljandi Culture Academy in collaboration with the Estonian Academy of Arts.

EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS combines a multidisciplinary team of experts from research institutes and R&D companies to carry out studies of bio-based textile colouration in traditional historic perspective and in combination with cutting-edge technologies of colourants biosynthesis and waterless applications techniques. Colour4CRAFTS members are the University of Helsinki, University of Lapland, University of Tartu, KIK-IRPA, University of Leeds and PILI Bio.

A new lecture series “Textile Dyes of the Past and Future: sharing the Colour4CRAFTS Experience” begins, initiated by the EU Horizon project  Colour4CRAFTS.

First Webinar on October 14th, 16:00 

https://events.teams.microsoft.com/event/e0218e9f-ab65-4315-b9d7-a0d1d162fd53@6d356317-0d04-4abc-b6b6-8c9773885bb0

Riina Rammo (Associate professor of Archaeology, Tartu University, Colour4CRAFTS) Liis Luhamaa (Textile specialist, Tartu University, Colour4CRAFTS)

“The Dye-World of the Past: Estonian Archaeological and Historical Textiles” (online)

In the first part of the lecture, Riina Rammo provides an overview of Estonian archaeological textile finds and the dyes used in them. The discussion begins with the Viking Age (800–1050), as the earliest finds date from this period, and continues up to the 17th century.

In the second part, Liis Luhamaa introduces the world of natural dyes and textile dyeing techniques based on written records and historical textiles from the 18th to 20th centuries. The talk will cover both local dyes and those that arrived from distant lands and found use here.

Liis Luhamaa, University of Tartu, Textile Specialist. Liis Luhamaa is a craft specialist and practical dyer with a background in biology and environmental technology. In addition, she holds a Master’s degree from the Department of Native Crafts at the Viljandi Culture Academy of the University of Tartu. She is also engaged with the topic of Estonian traditional costumes and conducts research on historical clothing. She is member of the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS team.

Riina Rammo, University of Tartu, Associate Professor. Riina Rammo is an archaeologist working as an Associate Professor in the Department of Archaeology at the University of Tartu. Her primary research interest lies in archaeological textiles, with a particular focus on technology, clothing, and issues related to preservation. She is the leader of Colour4CRAFTS University of Tartu team.

The webinar series brings together EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS members and important guests to discuss and share their knowledge on textile dyes of the past and future. The series is brought together by the University of Tartu and Viljandi Culture Academy in collaboration with the Estonian Academy of Arts.

EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS combines a multidisciplinary team of experts from research institutes and R&D companies to carry out studies of bio-based textile colouration in traditional historic perspective and in combination with cutting-edge technologies of colourants biosynthesis and waterless applications techniques. Colour4CRAFTS members are the University of Helsinki, University of Lapland, University of Tartu, KIK-IRPA, University of Leeds and PILI Bio.

On 29 September, as part of the Design Night festival, the exhibition “UPMADE® in Kenya: DiMa + EKA Circular Design” will open in the Krulli quarter, showcasing creative works made from the textile offcuts of a Kenyan factory.

The exhibition is free to attend, with the opening on Monday 29.09 at 18:30 at The Machine Shop I, Krulli quarter. Regular opening hours Tuesday–Saturday 11:00–20:00 and Sunday 11:00–18:00 (29.09-05.10.2025).  

The textile industry is one of the world’s most environmentally impactful sectors – it consumes vast amounts of raw materials and energy and generates large volumes of waste. In Kenya, where the industry is rapidly growing, sustainability principles have not yet been systematically implemented.

At the Rivatex textile factory in Eldoret, Kenya, the Estonian science- and design-based UPMADE® model—built on value-adding recycling, or upcycling—was taught and applied in collaboration with students from the Estonian Academy of Arts (EKA). The goal was to reduce the environmental footprint of production, develop skills, and help bring the local industry in line with circular-economy principles and climate targets.

From the factory’s textile remnants, the students designed clothing, accessories, lamps, sunshades and a variety of other objects. The exhibition presents the creative work of EKA circular-design master’s students who participated in the initiative during 2024–2025: Doreen Mägi, Eva Liis Lidenburg, Kaisa Ilves, Lisandra Türkson, Maria Rojiko Nisu, Mariann Hendrikson, Marit Saare, Mart Maide, Marta Konovalov, Merily Mikiver and Eva Reiska. The students were supervised by Reet Aus, Maria Pukk and Lisandra Türkson.

The EKA x T4EU podcast episode “Rethinking Fashion Waste” is available HERE. Designer and researcher Reet Aus shares insights on rethinking fashion waste in a discussion led by Anna Lohmatova, exploring the UPMADE® model in Kenya and the impact of EU sustainability regulations on the textile sector.

The exhibition is part of the project “Transferring UPMADE Expertise to Kenya,” led by EKA’s Sustainable Design and Materials Laboratory (DiMa). The project was carried out in cooperation with the Stockholm Environment Institute Tallinn Centre (SEI Tallinn) and Moi University, funded by the Estonian Ministry of Climate’s international climate-cooperation programme, with student mobility supported by the EU Erasmus+ programme.

Running from 29 September to 5 October, Design Night features many other EKA initiatives. The satellite programme includes EKA Design Week and a fashion artists’ exhibition, and EKA students will also take part in the joint display of Estonian design schools. The festival’s opening performance, “Inclusion Is Action,” is organised by EKA lecturer Reet Aus.

The full Design Night programme can be found here.

On May 30, at 3 p.m in EKA White House 

The work of Bart Hess is of the most tactile and intuitive nature. Crossing boundaries between design, fashion and art, his oeuvre is a series of studies into materiality, (virtual) reality and technology. He is fascinated by the human body, which he tends to cloak in ways that have little to do with styling or fashion but more so with performance art and science fiction. Hess makes material studies, (animation) video’s and photographs with the relationship between man and material, nature and technology at the centre. In his work he’s looking for the tension between attraction and repulsion when exploring the intimate relationship that materials have with our skin.

Textile 110 is a series of events celebrating the 110th anniversary of EKA’s textile design education, as part of which a series of open lectures focusing on textiles will be held, a series of publications will be published, and a selection of works from the EKA Museum’s textile collection can be seen throughout the year.

The lecture series opens up the spectrum of diverse opportunities in the field of textiles, both in design, industry, and creative practices, bringing out different roles and methods of creation in the field through various invited guests.

Supported by the Research Fund of EKA and the Cultural Endowment of Estonia

Textiles 110: Open Lecture by Päivi Vaarula “Material and Content, Working Together in textile Art”

On April 29, at 5 p.m in room A501

Päivi Vaarula is a textile artist from Hämeenlinna, Finland. Her work is rooted in keen observation of everyday life, which she thoughtfully transforms into the visual language of textile art. Rather than seeking to entertain, she aims to create meaningful, thought-provoking works that often engage with present contemporary issues—particularly those related to the environment.

Vaarula works with local materials, traditional floor looms, and natural dyes, embracing sustainable practices in both concept and technique. For several years, she has been known for her distinctive three-dimensional woven surfaces, skillfully utilizing the expressive qualities of wool to bring depth and texture to her pieces.

Her art has been featured in over 70 group exhibitions and she has held 18 solo exhibitions, both in Finland and internationally. Alongside her artistic practice, Päivi Vaarula has worked as a full-time lecturer for more than 30 years. She has led lectures and workshops in numerous countries, including Finland, Denmark, Germany, Japan, Wales, Scotland, England, and Iceland.

Päivi Vaarula will talk about her textile journey and about her art.

Her solo exhibition “Entertainment” is also open at HOP gallery (Hobusepea tänav 2, Tallinn) until April 29th.

Textile 110 is a series of events celebrating the 110th anniversary of EKA’s textile design education, as part of which a series of open lectures focusing on textiles will be held, a series of publications will be published, and a selection of works from the EKA Museum’s textile collection can be seen throughout the year.

The lecture series opens up the spectrum of diverse opportunities in the field of textiles, both in design, industry, and creative practices, bringing out different roles and methods of creation in the field through various invited guests.

Supported by the Research Fund of EKA and the Cultural Endowment of Estonia

On March 27 at 4:30 p.m in room A501

Formed by Judit Eszter Kárpáti and Esteban de la Torre,  EJTECH [ˈeɪtɛk’] is an polydisciplinary artist duo working with hyperphysical interfaces, programmable matter, and augmented textiles as media to investigate sensorial and conceptual relationships between subject and object, aiming to rediscover networks of emerging structures and immanent causality within realist metamaterialism. 

Sound, space, light and time as material building blocks are paramount elements in their practice, analyzing the process of unfolding patterns between technology and the human body. Driven by material research, resulting in performative installations, multichannel sonic sculptures and dynamic surfaces. Influenced by the philosophy of New Materialism, Holonic Theory and Somaesthetics, EJTECH aims to provide tools for exploring liminality, thirdspace, and the elusive state of now.

Their work has been presented in galleries, festivals and exhibitions such as Japan Media Arts Festival, European Media Arts Festival, Sensorium Festival, Smithsonian’s Hirshhorn Museum, Design Museum Holon, Ludwig Museum, Budapest Kunsthalle, LRRH Gallery, Collegium Hungaricum Berlin, Trafo House of Contemporary Arts, HayArt Center in Yerevan, Eastopics Gallery, Horizont Gallery, LOM Art Space, iii Instrument Inventors Initiative, Rewire among others.

EJTECH has created commissioned art pieces for cultural institutions and commercial brands such as DIOR, Blade Runner 2049, Dune: part two, Material ConneXion.

They regularly hold workshops and lectures on new media art and creative technology internationally. Founded the Soft Interfaces Lab in 2020 for further research in soft technology and material ecologies at MOME.

The artist duo currently works and lives in Budapest, Hungary.

Textile 110 is a series of events celebrating the 110th anniversary of EKA’s textile design education, as part of which a series of open lectures focusing on textiles will be held, a series of publications will be published, and a selection of works from the EKA Museum’s textile collection can be seen throughout the year.

The lecture series opens up the spectrum of diverse opportunities in the field of textiles, both in design, industry, and creative practices, bringing out different roles and methods of creation in the field through various invited guests.

Supported by the Research Fund of EKA and the Cultural Endowment of Estonia