Category: Faculty of Design

From 21 November to 4 January, the Palm Hall of the Tallinn Botanical Garden will present the exhibition “BOTEXSEMANTIC GARDEN / HORTUS BOTEXEMANTICUS” by Kadi Kibbermann and Piret Valk, lecturers from the Department of Textile Design at the Estonian Academy of Arts.

The exhibition presents experimental textile installations that tell the story of the role and meaning of plants in the lives of the artists – about the materials obtained from plants and their survival strategies.

The exhibition responds to the challenge of adapting to a world in which intergenerational memory is being replaced by instructions and rules; great stories have become impoverished language abbreviations and direct contacts have become virtual. Algorithms have become landmarks in plant-blind artificial landscapes.

The support-root of artists of maintaining balance with the real world are their contact with nature and relationships with other species. They explore what could be learned from plants through practical interest, poetic interpretations and artistic practice based on them. The inspiration is the diversity, essential and distinctiveness of the plant world – forms, patterns and textures; their necessity for people and the environment; their ability to adapt to change and survive even in very difficult conditions. The works combine knowledge and practical experience to show the importance of plants as an endless source of resources – as fertilizer, providing role models and seeds of ideas, as fibers and natural colors; and as communication with plants, health and balance. Plants help to remember and depict stories that affirm identity.

To adapt to today’s world, a new language of communication – BOTEX has been created in the context of the exhibition. Botany + textile + poetry + meanings = BOTEX semantics.

There are BOTEXophies growing in the BOTEXemantic garden.

BOTEXophies are synthesized from plants and textiles.

BOTEX is spoken by plant-loving BOTEXegees, to translate plants and their strategies through BOTEXophies.

BOTEXophies are named and organized into the BOTEXonomic system: INDEX BOTEXEMANTICUM.

The exhibition is open until the 4th of January 2026.

More information about the opening hours of the Palm House and greenhouses can be found at: https://botaanikaaed.ee/en/opening-hours/

Teams link:

https://events.teams.microsoft.com/event/5c5cc647-a839-4491-a006-cc7c3dc2013d@6d356317-0d04-4abc-b6b6-8c9773885bb0

Bintan Titisari (Postdoctoral researcher, University of Leeds, Colour4CRAFTS)

“Natural dyes ecosystem in textile and fashion industry” (in English, online)

Description: Natural dyeing is one of the oldest traditions in European textiles, deeply tied to cultural heritage and local craftsmanship. Today, it is re-emerging as an important practice in the textile and fashion industries, extending from small workshops into larger-scale production. This lecture examines the broader ecosystem of natural dyes, exploring how they intersect with heritage, sustainability, design practice, and trend forecasting. The relationship between artisanal and industrial approaches can appear divided, yet each contributes valuable knowledge and innovation. By recognising these interconnections, we can better understand how natural dyes offer not only a link to tradition but also a pathway toward more sustainable and creative futures for fashion and textiles.

Bintan Titisari (PhD), University of Leeds, postdoctoral researcher. Bintan Titisari (PhD) is a postdoctoral researcher at the School of Design, University of Leeds. Her research interests are in the textile and fashion design industry, focusing on the interdisciplinary aspects of textile design, colourants, sustainable practices, and consumer behaviour. With over a decade of academic experience in Indonesia, Brunei, and the UK, she has taught and developed courses in sustainable fashion, craft design, resist dyeing, and smart textiles. In her textile-making practice, she combines natural dyes with the resist dyeing technique to create unique textiles. She is a member of the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS.

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The lecture is part of a series “Textile Dyes of the Past and Future: sharing the Colour4CRAFTS Experience” begins, initiated by the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS.

The webinar series brings together EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS members and important guests to discuss and share their knowledge on textile dyes of the past and future. The series is brought together by the University of Tartu and Viljandi Culture Academy in collaboration with the Estonian Academy of Arts.

EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS combines a multidisciplinary team of experts from research institutes and R&D companies to carry out studies of bio-based textile colouration in traditional historic perspective and in combination with cutting-edge technologies of colourants biosynthesis and waterless applications techniques. Colour4CRAFTS members are the University of Helsinki, University of Lapland, University of Tartu, KIK-IRPA, University of Leeds and PILI Bio.

11.11 16.00

Deb Bamford (doctoral researcher, University of Leeds, Colour4CRAFTS)

” What can we learn from using mordants?” (in English, online)

In natural dyeing, mordants are often required. These substances help dye molecules bind to the fiber and can influence the final hue. Their effectiveness depends on the type of fiber, the dye used, and the mordanting method. The most commonly used mordants are various metal salts, historically among which alum-based compounds are particularly popular. How do mordants work, and what should be considered when using them?

Deb Bamford, University of Leeds, doctoral researcher. Deb Bamford is a doctoral student at the University of Leeds, School of Design. Her research interests include history of dyes, dyeing and textiles. Her thesis title is “Investigations to improve the mordanting process for natural dyes on cotton and wool using aluminium salts or alternative bio-mordants”. She is a member of the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS project.

The lecture is part of a series “Textile Dyes of the Past and Future: sharing the Colour4CRAFTS Experience” begins, initiated by the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS.

The webinar series brings together EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS members and important guests to discuss and share their knowledge on textile dyes of the past and future. The series is brought together by the University of Tartu and Viljandi Culture Academy in collaboration with the Estonian Academy of Arts.

EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS combines a multidisciplinary team of experts from research institutes and R&D companies to carry out studies of bio-based textile colouration in traditional historic perspective and in combination with cutting-edge technologies of colourants biosynthesis and waterless applications techniques. Colour4CRAFTS members are the University of Helsinki, University of Lapland, University of Tartu, KIK-IRPA, University of Leeds and PILI Bio.

On November 11 at 5:00 p.m., an exhibition of biennial proportions will open in the Telliskivi Green Hall, where young artists from the Estonian Academy of Arts will explore how the relationship between industry and society has developed and changed over time. The exhibition features more than 100 artworks.

The exhibition “Invisible Stones. A Young Artist’s View of Industry” focuses on the dialogue between industry and society. The exhibition features over a hundred works that invite us to think about responsibility, sustainability and the impact of humans on the landscape.

The works were created during summer internships at the industrial landscapes of Viru Keemia Grupp in Ida-Viru County. The young artists’ gaze moves from poetic landscape views to intimate everyday stories – oil shale sometimes becomes a decorative wallpaper pattern in the living room, sometimes a monumental cathedral that records the layers of time.

The collaboration is motivated by the 100th anniversary of the Estonian shale oil industry. The exhibition invites the viewer to stop and reflect on the traces that work, landscape and people have left on each other and how their relationship could develop in the future.

The summer internship at the industrial landscapes of Viru Keemia Grupp took place in June and August 2025. A total of 65 students participated in the summer internship, including students from the departments of scenography, animation, graphics, sculpture, contemporary art, fashion and painting. The exhibition also presents the work of designers and applied artists.

Participating artists: Adele Sillat, Alexander Matthias Saage, Aliisa Ahtiainen, Anastasia Nikiforova, Anastasia Ananjeva, Anu Jakobson, Beata Batejev, Bob Bicknell-Knight, Darja Malõševa, Edvard Vellevoog, Emma Reti Tikenberg, Grete Kangro, Hannah Segerkrantz, Ivor Mikker, Karl Uustal, Kaspar Lesk, Kateryna Tyshchenko, Karolina Peterson, Kirke Kirt, Kirke Kits, Kristjan Tammjärv, Ksenia Verbeštšuk, Liisa Nurklik, Linda Teemägi, Lume Tuum, Maibrit Kaur, Marek Huntsaar, Maria-Eliise Muinaste, Marit Loitmets, Marta Huimerind, Marta Konovalov, Mia-Stella Aaslaid, Nora Schmelter, Oskar Vels, Patrick Soome, Paul Aadam Mikson, Piia Bianka Pere, Robin August Vöörmann, Rosa-Maria Nuutinen, Sander Haugas, Selene Taur, Stuudio Kollektiir, Stiina-Marie Sarevet, Taavi Teevet, Tauris Reose, Teresa RA, Veronika Pavliuk, Visa Nurmi, Yuna-Lee Pfau, Denis Kudrjašov

Exhibition curators: Lilian Hiob-Küttis, Kirke Kangro and Ruth Melioranski

Project team: Irina Bojenko, Kaia-Liisa Jõesalu, Kaja Krustok

Supervisors: Anita Kremm, Britta Benno, Charlotte Biszewski, Ene-Liis Semper, Francesco Rosso, Holger Loodus, John Grzinich, Karl Joonas Alamaa, Laura Põld, Lilli-Krõõt Repnau, Mark Raidpere, Mihkel Ilus, Taavi Talve, Viktor Gurov, Zody Burke, Björn Koop, Eve Margus, Heikki Zoova, Juss Heinsalu, Kaja Altvee, Kärt Ojavee, Lieven Lahaye, Linda Kaljundi, Nils Hint, Piret Hirv, Urmas Lüüs

Designer: Kati Saarits

The exhibition is open until December 7th.

Thu-Fri 12-7 PM

Sat-Sun 10-5 PM

We warmly welcome you to the opening of the group exhibition 

“The Hay Season. A Longing for Eternity” on 11 November at 6:30 PM, 

at Manufaktuuri 7/2, Tallinn.

From 12. November to 18. December 2025, artists Martin Mikson, Anna-Liisa Pärt, Paul Aadam Mikson, and Juulia Aleksandra Mikson present a joint exhibition “The Hay Season. A Longing for Eternity” at Manufaktuuri Quarter, Tallinn.

“The Hay Season. A Longing for Eternity” is an exhibition that reflects on the relationship between humans and nature, the passage of time, and the rhythms of survival. Once, haytime signified a period of anxious waiting and dependence on the weather – today, it has become a poetic metaphor for the longing for peace and balance in an ever-changing world.

The exhibition mirrors the artists’ personal and shared connection to familiar landscapes that are in constant transformation. “The Hay Season. A Longing for Eternity” invites the viewer to notice the rhythm of nature and reminds us how fragile our bond with it has become.

Martin Mikson is a scenographer and painter who has created numerous stage designs for Estonian theatres.
Anna-Liisa Pärt is a scenographer and painter.
Paul Aadam Mikson is a metal artist. Who works with large scale forgings.  
Juulia Aleksandra Mikson is a textile artist exploring the boundaries between materials.

All the artists are graduates of the Estonian Academy of Arts.

Graphic design: Juulia A. Mikson

Supported by: Hepsor, Põhjala Pruulikoda, Õllenaut.

On November 4 at 16:00 in room A101, Sergio Dávila will give a public lecture titled “Biosemiotics, Otherness, and the Ontological Turn”. The lecture is part of the Faculty of Design’s public lecture series “Public Lectures in Design: Adjusting Perspectives,” curated by Stella Runnel and Taavi Hallimäe.

Humanity faces a profound ecological and civilizational crisis that is not only environmental but also symbolic and ontological. Modern urban development and governance, driven by extractivist logics and capital accumulation, have treated the living world as a backdrop for human progress, erasing reciprocity with other forms of life. This prevailing anthropocentric worldview, placing humans and the economy at the center, has led to climate breakdown, biodiversity loss, and social alienation. In contrast, an alternative ecocentric paradigm is germinating, one that seeks not dominance but coexistence.

Biophilic governance is proposed as a framework for this transformative shift. Biophilic denotes an orientation of deep interdependence and care among all life, while governance here refers not merely to institutions and laws but to the collective practices, rituals, and decisions that shape our relationships with the living world. Biophilic governance is, in essence, a politics of making-with Earth, a practice of coexistence that extends care, communication, and even representation beyond the human realm. It aligns with Donna Haraway’s notion of sympoiesis (“making-with”) and Escobar’s call for ontological design, both of which advocate redefining human–nature relations in terms of interdependence rather than domination. It resonates as well with Bayo Akómoláfé’s provocative call for an “ontological mutiny,” a rebellion at the level of being, through which humanity might unlearn its delusions of separateness and experiment with new forms of earthly belonging.

This talk will be a place for sharing ideas about the spirit of our era. A positive view as a stand of resistance against cynicism, ecological anxiety, and despair. Participants will review some cases of biophilic governance and then be guided to develop their own public policies, strategies, actions, and proposals for public space as radical collaboration with other earth-beings.

The public lectures are open to students, faculty, as well as anyone else interested in design!

Sergio Dávila is a PhD candidate in Urban Studies at the Universidad Autónoma Metropolitana in Mexico City and an exchange researcher at the Estonian Academy of Arts. His work explores how cities can become spaces of coexistence between humans and other species through biophilic design, participatory processes, and creative governance. As a researcher, teacher, and frequent conference speaker, Sergio bridges design, ecology, and politics to imagine more-than-human futures for our urban environments.

21.10 16.00 

https://events.teams.microsoft.com/event/7259da59-2f6c-4ba2-97c8-348e6b5a6666@6d356317-0d04-4abc-b6b6-8c9773885bb0

Riikka Räisanen (Professor, University of Helsinki, Colour4CRAFTS consortium leader)

“From Tradition to the future: Chemistry behind natural Colour Palette” (In English, online)

Societies are stretching towards greater sustainability and textile colouration has been in discussion as it is one of the industries which uses vast amounts of energy and water resources and pollutes environment through poor control of colouration processes. Also, the aim to pull away from fossil resources has driven research to studies of natural and bio-based solutions in materials and dyeing.  Before the mid 19th century, and the revolution of colour chemistry designing synthetic dyes, natural sources offered the only colourants in use. Currently natural dyes have become more popular among designers and craft practitioners. In my lecture I will showcase some of the recent research done in the area of bio-based colourants and novel solutions how to apply them in different materials and final products. Focus is especially laid in proceedings of the EU-Horizon funded Colour4CRAFTS project and its multidisciplinary teams which include researchers from archaeology, history, textile technology and craft, chemistry, design and futures studies.

Riikka Räisanen, University of Helsinki, Professor. Riikka Räisänen is a professor in craft science and craft pedagogy in the University of Helsinki. Her background is in chemistry and natural sciences, craft studies and education. She has over twenty years of experience in research of natural colourants and textiles, and has published numerous articles and books on the topic. In 2016 she was awarded with the Silver Medal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (UK) for the research in the field of natural colourants. She is the Colour4CRAFTS consortium leader.

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The lecture is part of a series “Textile Dyes of the Past and Future: sharing the Colour4CRAFTS Experience” begins, initiated by the EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS.

The webinar series brings together EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS members and important guests to discuss and share their knowledge on textile dyes of the past and future. The series is brought together by the University of Tartu and Viljandi Culture Academy in collaboration with the Estonian Academy of Arts.

EU Horizon project Colour4CRAFTS combines a multidisciplinary team of experts from research institutes and R&D companies to carry out studies of bio-based textile colouration in traditional historic perspective and in combination with cutting-edge technologies of colourants biosynthesis and waterless applications techniques. Colour4CRAFTS members are the University of Helsinki, University of Lapland, University of Tartu, KIK-IRPA, University of Leeds and PILI Bio.

Julia Maria Künnap, “Travelling Light. A Study on the Movement of Light in Experimentally Cut Gemstones”

EKA Library 21.10-4.11.2025

This artistic research explores the fundamental principle of gemstone faceting — the refraction and reflection of light – in the combination of faceted and freeform elements. The aim of the exhibition is to demonstrate how individual reflective elements, through their mutual interaction, create the brilliance of a gemstone. To illustrate this theory, the exhibition presents both work in process and finished gems set in jewelry. The Exhibition is the First Creative Project of Doctoral Thesis “Playing with fire. Possibilities for designing four-dimensional gemstones by combining traditional faceting and free-form engraving. Time as a design element.” Supervisor Prof Krista Kodres

Julia Maria Künnap is a PhD student and junior researcher in Art and Design.

On October 16, Narva Art Residency will host the largest international fashion exhibition in Narva to date, “Hõimulõim (Tribal Thread),” led by the Fashion Design Department. The exhibition will open as part of the official program of “Narva Finno-Ugric Capital of Culture 2025” and will take place during the most important week of the tribal peoples’ calendar year, Tribal Week.

“Hõimulõim” is an exhibition that weaves Finno-Ugric tradition into contemporary fashion design. It is a tribute to a rich heritage, the survival of which depends on how skillfully we can bring it into our lives today. Tradition does not remain in a closet or archive – it only lives if we let it grow with time, wear it and love it.

The exhibition features the work of designers from nine Finno-Ugric peoples. The works of Sami, Khanty, Udmurt, Mari, Komi, Hungarian, Karelian, Finnish (including Ingrian) and Estonian (including Seto and Võro) creators highlight that clothing can be both a practical object and a carrier of identity and collective memory. Each author asks in their own way what it means to be a Finno-Ugric designer in the 21st century – how to weave one’s tradition into a modern form and what to tell the world about its multi-layered field of meaning. These works also open up ethical choices: what material to use, how to preserve local skills and how to tell the story of one’s people in a way that creates a dialogue even for those who were not born into this cultural space.

The “tribal thread” (hõimulõim) is an invisible but tenacious bond between Finno-Ugric peoples. It does not ask for national borders or political sentiment, but runs deep in the undercurrents – in language, patterns, songs, dance and beliefs”, says the exhibition curator Piret Puppart and adds: “In today’s world, where the song of some peoples is quieter than ever before and the weavers of many patterns have become isolated, this thread between tribal peoples is particularly fragile.”

Various social tensions are increasingly testing the survival of traditions and forcing us to look for ways to keep them alive for future generations. “Hõimulõim” invites us to notice that preserving culture is not only about preserving the past, but also about creating the future. It is an invitation to wear our heritage on a daily basis – be it a piece of jewelry, an object or an ornament – ​​and to understand that every such choice strengthens the thread that connects us across borders and eras.

The exhibition’s interactive, technologically innovative experiences are also exciting. Visitors can discover patterns hidden in dresses created by Piret Puppart using magnets, as well as experience a hologram waterfall dedicated to the world of Votian patterns designed by artist Alyona Movko-Mägi. Hologram art is a little-known technique in the world of conjuring visual elements that cannot be touched with the hand, but can be touched virtually and with the eye. This is the first time this medium is coming to Narva in such a volume.

Finno-Ugric roots also have a wider international reach in the world of design and art than one might think. The Komi compass pattern has found its way into Kandinsky’s paintings, and Udmurt mannerisms into Tchaikovsky’s music. However, only recently was a designer with Karelian roots awarded the Diesel Design Award, while Izhor blood has dressed Estonian Olympic athletes in Athens. The representative of the Mari nationality was behind the knitting collections of the legendary Estonian brand Mosaic for years, and when wearing Adidas shoes, you can feel the Udmurt heart. The Diesel Design Award-winning collection and the best pieces from Helsinki Design Week are also coming to the exhibition that will open soon. The exhibition can be visited until January 11.

Curator: Piret Puppart

Artists: Antrea Kantakoski, vainio.seitonen (Johanna Vainio & Merja Seitsonen), Sigrid Kuusk, Ramona Salo, Dina Andreeva, Natalja Lill, Darali Leli, Eneken Johanson, Stella Tukia, Kaia Kuusmann, Zsófia Papp, Zsófia Papp, Maria Roosiaas, Hanna-Tiina Pekk, Anneliis Reili, Kertu Kivisik, Nadežda Kasatkina, Lana Vakhovska, Karl Joonas Alamaa, Piret Puppart and Alyona Movko-Mägi 

Graphic design: Eva Sepping

Many thanks: Anna Kuznetsova, Muš Nadii, Nikolai Anisimov, Nikolay Kuznetsov, Barbi Pilvre, Jaak Prozes, Žanna Toht, Ekaterina Kuznetsova, Helena Schilf, Natalia Ermakov

Supporters: Estonian Academy of Arts, Fashion Design Department, Tribal Peoples Program, Cultural Endowment, NGO Fenno-Ugria, NART, Narva Finno-Ugric Capital of Culture 2025